Surfing, Uncategorized

The Surfing Roots

There’s this feeling I get when we drive to the coast, as my Dad puts it “The bubble of excitement” as you hope to see lines making their way to the shore. Yesterday we were greeted with bright sunshine, cross shore winds and cleanish WAVES, hello cleanish waves! 


Waves in the left hand bay

Its been almost two months since I got my hair wet, memories of Sri Lanka hazing away.  We suited up which I can compare to feeling like a giant human liquorice, face quite attractively squeezed in the hood, its a good look.

After a quick stretch on the beach we headed in armed with our trusty steeds, two Bic long boards. The 9ft board has proved to be indestructible having come with us to Cornwall, Bournemouth and many a Norfolk coast scout. 


The wonder board

Being on this 9ft board feels like I’m on a boat, going over a wave that’s about to break is no problem cause I’m gonna make it woooo……..mostly. But I did feel like I was an invincible piece of liquorice out there flinging myself into every breaker.  There was no ice cream head, heck I wasn’t even the slightest bit cold at all, practically tropical.  The waves were small (1-2ft) and there were surfers!!  A community of surfers at my home break, oh sweetness to share the waves and see others just as stoked.

After successfully nose diving my first wave, funnily enough looking down on a 9ft board isn’t a good idea.  I got to grips with my length and caught a few ‘beauties’.  After the initial self doubt I thought yes I can surf, I haven’t forgotten everything I know, I can do this!

Sharing the waves with my Dad is a real pleasure.  He is a committed Norfolk surfer braving the icy brown waves all year round. 


Dad prepping

After our sunny session I had that idiot grin on again and we retreated to the car to stand on the road, de-suit, flash the bushes and make the journey home. We stopped off by a charming little pub called ‘Nelson Head’ so Dad could indulge in a pint of locally brewed Woodfordes Ale and me a sparkling water darling (driver responsibilities and payback to Dad for years of chauffeuring me).  An open fire greeted us, yes its April but our limbs were grateful for it.  We admired the splendour of the yellow Rapeseed field set against some type of palm tree??


Idiot grin and a delightfully yellow rapeseed field

It was a fantastic first foray back to the break where I grew up and an introduction into how to paddle when you are swathed in neoprene, suffice to say I ache all day today, hurrah it means surf success (goes to sign up to the gym).


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