The little things I have learnt about my surfing whilst in Sri Lanka and India
1. I’m probably not going to make it on the world tour circuit.
2. If you come on a trip wanting to improve your surfing probably best to bring your surfboard with you. Failing that have an excellent friend called Dan Bisson who will bring it out with him from London town.
3. Actually beach breaks can be pretty fun.
4. When you are lucky enough for your first board to be shaped for you and your shaper asks you if you want to be able to duck dive the board the answer should always be “yes”.
5. I can half duck dive my board but have excellent grip on a turtle roll.
6. My paddling has definitely improved, still working on that speed.….
7. I got to surf with a lot of turtles in Sri Lanka, that’s pretty awesome.
8. Surfing is a great way to meet like minded people and some great friendships have been born out of meeting in the water.
9. No bikinis tops have kept my boobs in order unless the waves are sub 1 foot.
10. Bikini bottoms stretch if they are 4 years old and will show your ass (problem when half duck diving, see point 5).
11. I’m still mad keen on this sport even if I’m not very good, that’s what matters right??
12. There is no nicer feeling than being in warm water with friends with the sun setting, catching waves together.
13. I gotta get over the fear of ‘the drop’ on steeper waves, otherwise passion meets its nemesis, frustration!
14. Paddling away from sets rather than into them is not quite the right way to do things.
15. I cannot wait to surf my North Sea home break for a cold hard reality check.
16. Don’t hesitate on the wave just go!!