Surfing

Pure Happiness

Pure happiness. My arms glide through the crystal blue water and the sun beams down on me as paddle out to the line-up. Today has been everything I love rolled into one; a sweaty yoga session with India and our amazing teacher; Lyndon, hiring a surfboard from the very helpful and sweet Sana, getting out to the Main Point in Hikkaduwa and surfing my heart out for two wholesome sessions.

Main point in Hikkaduwa is situated in-front of Mambo restaurant and is an A-Frame reef point which just keeps on giving. After spending lots of time surfing in Bali I almost enjoy going left more than right as a regular footer. I hired a 7 ft 4” mini-mal which was perfect for the conditions of 2ft on the sets. It felt really good to have a board with a bit more length to add a little extra ooompphhh to my paddling.

Ahhh catching that first wave felt so good, the only thing that could better it? Catching a long left with the green face greeting me AND a turtle for company on the ride-a turtle I tell you! I saw so many turtles out in the sea today it was incredible. Surfing is so addictive. I got rolled around, wiped-out, held under but still came up smiling (and coughing from a salty throat). When you catch a wave that you’ve longed for your whole body tingles with excitement and getting to enjoy the face and make the journey across, up and down feels so incredible. The love for it keeps you coming back for more. It’s never enough and I can’t sit still when there are waves in front of me and a board in my hand.

I’ve been trying out the sun-cream brand ‘Surfer’s Skin’ which so far has treated my skin well and I haven’t been burnt whilst out in the water at all. I opted for a first session in just my bikini as nothing feels better and more free than that. The second session involved my tee over said bikini and I only almost lost my pants five times or so, the best time being whilst catching a wave, a quick tug on them saved me from too much embarrassment, or so I would like to think.

After my first surf I got out to indulge in a well needed sugar and water hit. India had gone in for a swim, all is good. I’d been standing there watching India swim for a good ten minutes or so when I started to notice despite her swimming she wasn’t going anywhere, hmmm. Moments prior to this my faithful friend Sana had been telling me that between Main Point and the break to the left of it the current gets very strong and can pull people out (this is key information for right now). I walk to the water’s edge and give India a thumbs up check and get a thumbs down from her. Ok, shit. I run to grab my board but by this point a local guy is running down with his to rescue her. He paddles out to my darling girl in lightening speed and she hops onto his board. Massive PHEW. I go into the water and slip my arm around her waist and give her a good badger hug, the poor love. She is absolutely fine if not a little shaken. After this we saw a lot of people make the same mistake of swimming out too far and getting caught resulting in the bar guys running out to their rescue. So if you’re reading this and in Hikkaduwa be careful the rips can be very strong.

I am 100% stoked and 100% knackered, there is no better feeling! I only wish my surfing sister/companion/all round cheerer and encourager Emma Hamilton was here too to enjoy the waves with me.

 

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